【回顾】——Models.com spring 2002 十佳广告

10. Miu Miu

Starring: Models Kristina C/Elite, Norina/Next
评语：
The Agent: Miu Miu excited me because I honestly didn't know what I was looking at and had to work it out, almost as if it were a puzzle. And the great thing about that was it made you feel smarter than the average bear. Ain't that Miuccia for ya(lol)
The Shop A Holic: Miu Miu is a great line. I actually like it more than Prada which is just good for three months wear. Like I'm ever going to touch that gold skirt ever again in my life!
T
he Editor: Bizarre in the grand tradition of Miu-Miu. I like the distortion of the bodies that look like doll parts improperly put together. Because it was so off it actually was a lot more refreshing that the run-of-the mill material that made this season somewhat uninspiring.
The Art Director: You can take the girl out of art school but you can't take the art school out of the girl!
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8. Chanel

Photographer: Karl Lagerfeld
Starring: Stella Tennant/Women
评语：
The Editor: So this is what it is like to be born rich, to be raised rich and to know in all probability you will become even richer before the curtain falls. You know wealth. You know that world. You know those women as your mother, your mate, your muse. You know what a rich woman truly is. It's like Stella once said in a m
oment of offhanded truth: "Money is not new to my family". This is the wealthiest looking woman I've seen in any of these campaigns. And she's doing something instinctive to her tribe. Window shopping. She doesn't look forced or fake in the clothes. Dear god, she's not even posing! She's embodying!
The Art Director: I like it. Stella in Chanel. Shopping. Roll credits. Karl Lagerfeld always gets it!
The Shop A Holic: It's cool. Not going crazy. Makes me want to buy something for my Mom.
The Agent: Like the song says "Clear as day, hard as diamonds". Is this Aspen?
The Editor: No dear, it's aspirational.
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6. Fendi

Photographer: Mert n Marcus
Starring: Kate Moss/Women
评语：
The Art Director: I'm bored. It's beautiful but I'm bored. Frankly. Kate looks great as always. The lighting is that Old Hollywood thing they're into. Funky hairstyle. God it must be hard to come up with a hairstyle on Kate that hasn't been done a million times before. This is an arty catalogue. No better or worse that the dozens of other arty catalogue campaigns out there.
The Editor: Mert n Marcus on the rise. Clear, concise, seductive but it's not necessarily clean and mercifully moody. It's not just Kate on seamless in Fendi. It's an emotion. The raw and the rustic become very refined. Karl is a perfect client for them and this is the evidence.
The Agent: I'm really amazed by their career. What is going on with Smile. Are they making deals with the devil? Who's negotiating on M&M's behalf? What works for me is the tones. It's earthy and rich and dark, just like the collection and they did light Kate like she was Greta Garbo. Which come to think of it...she is. It's a very fabulous ad in a subtle way. Very feminine but not weak. It really is smart.
The Shop A Holic: The bag! The bag! Hubba hubba!
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4. Louis Vuitton

Photographer: Mert N Marcus
Starring: Tasha/Next, Ann Catherine/Vision
评语：
The Editor: Now here's a risky enterprise. Tasha in Snow White and The Seven Dwarves. Ann Catherine in Alice and The Looking Glass. Mert n Marcus presents Louis Vuitton as espoused via fairy tales. Such a twee concept should have fallen flat on its face. But it didn't and it testifies to the dexterity and wit of Mert n Marcus' vision that the campaign worked. The whimsy of the Julie Verhoven appliques on the Vuitton bags find a perfect expression in these visuals. But though it's romantic and whimsical, it still retains the cool girl edge that Marc instills in Vuitton. This totally deserves a niche in the Top Three.
The Art Director: Vuitton is great, but it drives me nuts. Do you get this feeling like there's the old tug of war between Marc and The Suits isn't over. One season it's all Demarchelier and Product the size of skyscrapers. Which I'm sure is what makes the money. The next season it's Mert n Marcus being all hip and ironic. At least this year there's a happy medium. It's too cool for school but at least there's a clear sell on the product. Good for them!
The Shop A Holic: Does Louis Vuitton even need ads? Please!
The Agent: Great choices all around, in set design, in casting, in using the soft focus photography. This ad proves that M& M have amazing versatility. They can give it to you hard and they can give it to you soft. Man, I wonder how much they're earning per year now. Plus they have Lancome....Wow! Why haven't W, Bazaar or Vogue put them under contract yet? Politically speaking they are obviously the most influential new photographers on the block!
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3. Givenchy

Photographer: Mario Testino
Starring: Carmen Kass/Women
评语：
The Editor: The Givenchy line itself might be suffering right now from a certain lack oh...shall we discretely say...distinction... but I'm not going to contend with Mario Testino's perfect evocation of Givenchy chic in this case. The girl is right, the dress is spot on, the make-up is accurate, the hair correct and the room...that room. You want to live in that room. So clever, that Mario, to essay a message of taste with interior design.
The Agent: You have to really respect Mario. The man understands the glamour of money. His stuff might be kinda obvious and kinda shallow but he really is the best at making the world of status and money and power feel light and fun. He's a fan of all of that. He loves it and he really did a great job for Givenchy. I loved the advertorial they ran in V with the G-I-V-E-N-C-H-Y spelt out as black and white cut out images. Remember that oversized French magazine that's a big influence on V. Was it called Ritz? It reminds me very much of that!
The Art Director: Where is this? Whose room is this? Is this supposed to be a room that this woman lives in? Cause if it is, I'm not convinced. It looks like the office of some old school...old world banker. A banker for billionaires. And what the hell has that got to do with Carmen. It looks like a rented set. But even though this ad doesn't completely seduce me, I'm not going to pretend that it doesn't stink of old money. It does!
The Shop A Holic: I'm more into the room than the clothes. Only Carmen Kass can get away with a dress like that. I'd look like somebody's grandma(lol)
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2. Versace



Photographer: Steven Meisel
Starring: Sharon/Clear + Multiples
评语：
The Art Director: Oooooh. Look! Butts and boobs. Shocking. Outrageous. Scandalous! Whatever! This is so vulgar and "trying-too-hard" . But then again it's Versace which is always good when it's vulgar and in your face. It's too much in my face but I can't pretend that it doesn't grab my attention.
The Shop A Holic: Sexy. Makes me wanna take off all my clothes and just not care. Hope they're wearing sunscreen! Did they really shoot this in LA? Wow! What I wouldn't give to be on the beach that day! I love the prints! Versace is all about prints!
The Editor: Love her or loathe her, the consumer will never leave her because Donatella IS them. A consumate consumer, the medusa mother of all consumers. In a season marked by fear and the primary interest in safety, Versace and Steven saunters off to a nude beach with a bevy of beauties and fiddle away! I adore that. That is such a purely honest fashion reaction! It is quintessentially Versace to go to Capri or Porto Fino or Punta dell Este when it seemed as if the world was ending! So adolescent. And aren't we all in a state of arrested development to be doing fashion for a living? To react with such an aggressive sexuality! Astonishing! This is what a brand needs to live today. The honest and active emotional valences of the brand leader. A belief system that is coming from an individual, not a committee. I really admire her guts!
The Agent: Take THAT, Mario Testino. Or actually Bruce Weber. Who already shot all of this for that Rio book of his from back in the 80's, except he shot it in black and white and also took a lot of the action indoors. But it's a clever reference. And going Technicolor is what makes it Versace. I've never noticed what a great eye Steven had for color before. It's a great ad.
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1. Missoni


Photographer: Mert n Marcus
Starring: Gisele / IMG
评语：
The Shop A Holic: I know everybody doesn't love Missoni right now. It's not YSL or Gucci or Marc or Dior but I kinda like that. I feel like it's for me. It's not for the crowd! It's not the usual. It's personal and I've never thought of Missoni as glamorous but Gisele looks so sexy and glamorous in these pictures I'm like...sold. I love it! It's all about a Missoni bikini for me baby!
The Agent: Mert N Marcus seem hell-bent on taking over the entire market. I think 9-11 resulted in a power shift where a lot of European clients felt it was more practical to shoot out of London or Paris and these boys certainly capitalized on that shift. Not to mention the fact that what they do is so big and glossy and sexy, it feels very comfortable and familiar. And so they have the clients signing on in droves. Now add to that, a campaign like this one, which is just breathtakingly effective, and you get the feeling that they are going to keep these new client relationships.
The Art Director: Oh my God. No art. No intellectual architecture ying yanging. No cutting up. No graffiti. No defacement. Just a beautiful woman in beautiful clothes beautifully lit with beautiful hair and make-up in a beautiful environment. Gee, why didn't more people think of that? The Fendi was too heavy for me but this Missoni is great. Love it. No 1 ad of the season.
The Editor: Someone once wrote that glamour is the state of being envied. An enviable state. I look at Gisele in this campaign and I go green with envy. Green for her face, body, hair, skin, clothes, cheekbones. Green for this world she's in. It's so fab I could vomit! Mert n Marcus takes glamour into another world. The world of a computer generated hyper-reality. These are impossible colors. Impossible textures. And if there is one brand in the universe that is about color and texture it's Missoni. And so the ad relationship to the brand is hysterically perfect. I adore it even as I burn with jealousy. It's THE ad of the season!
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